Only In Western Australia

This week's PhotoHunter theme is fluffy.

While visiting Tasmania we stayed at a B&B where the owner took us out for a nocturnal walk. We didn't come across any Tasmanian devils, but we did meet this fluffy guy--a Brushtail possum. The Australian possum is very distinct than those found in other countries. Supposedly the aboreal marsupials were named because their similarity to the opossum of  South America.  

Looking For A Handout

 

This week's PhotoHunt theme is hand.

It was no problem to get this wallaby to eat out of my hand. She even let her little joey have a taste. The picture was taken at Cleland Wildlife Park. You are able to buy special pellets to feed the animals. You should never feed wallabies and kangaroos in the wild since they can get lumpy jaw. An infection that causes their jaws to swell and is usually fatal in kangaroos.

Bee Feral

We were closer to home, but with 400km still in front of us we decided to stop for the night. We pulled out the map and decided that the Murray Sunset National Park looked like the best place to camp. We figured that its isolated location, vast y spaces and lack of water would provided us with the solitary bush experience that we have come to love. After all who would travel hundreds of kilometers to camp next to a dry salt bed in the middle of summer. 

We were disappointed when we pulled into the campground to see a few other tents, but fortunately they were all congregated next to the long drop. We were able to find a campsite without neighbors.

As we pitched the tent we noticed that there were a fair number of bees flying around. This was a bit of a concern since I am allergic to bee stings. Fortunately, our tent is easy to assemble and I quickly took refuge, hoping that as the sun set on the horizon the bees would also disappear. As Mark continued to set up camp, I was leafing through the Park's brochure, and there in the top right hand corner was a warning of feral bees. Apparently, some of the exotic honey bees that were introduced into Australia over 170 years ago have escaped and become a pest. They especially become a nuisance during the summer months when they aggressively seek out water to cool their hives. Further reading informed me that it isn't just H20 that they are attracted to, but that they love human perspiration. I didn't need to read anymore. I knew that even with my EpiPen nearby I still did not want to experience an allergic attack should I be stung. I had no choice but to imprison myself in our tent.  Mark couldn't have agreed more; truly, he dreads the day when we are hundreds of kilometers from anything and he has to stick me in the leg with epinephrine. 

A Natural Disaster

I have to admit that I no longer grab for my camera when I see a Koala or Kangaroo. I sometimes will pause for a look, but truthfully these animals have become a bit mundane. However, there are several Australian exotics that make me squeal with joy. Unfortunately, they are a bit harder to come by and often it takes some effort to reap the reward of viewing them in the wild. 

One of these animals is the Southern Hairy-Nosed Wombat, and it was the hope of sighting one in the wild that had us packing up our camping gear and heading out to the Riverlands over the weekend. We had been planning the trip for weeks, and even though I had seen them a couple of times in the wild, I wanted to take advantage of the unseasonably cool temperatures to head out to the semi-scrub desert of South Australia. A couple of days before we were to set out I realized that the late spring storms, that brought an abundance of much needed rain, had possibly put the animal that we were heading out to see in peril. Apparently, torrential rains had flooded the area that many South Australian Wombats call home. I could only hope the two Conservation Parks that we had planned to visit stood on high enough ground and had not been destroyed by the devastating storms.

As we drove along the cliff banks high above the Murray River, I was shocked by the scene below. The waters had breeched the river banks and the entire valley was flooded. It saddened me to think of the dozens of wombats that had built their burrows on the flood plain. From where we stood it was obvious that for a marsupials that spend more than half its lives underground, more likely than not they had suffered an untimely death. As we continued down the road, my spirits didn't improve since many of the surrounding fields high on the plateau were flooded. 

My spirits rose when we arrived at Pooginook Conservation Park. Less than 10 minutes from our campsite we found a warren with at least a half dozen entrances. With the near full moon high in the sky we sat off to the side in wait. And wait we did, but not a single critter decided to come out for a feed, and eventually we decided to call it a night and return in the early morning.

Under the predawn sky, we were better able to assess the environment and in the faint light we were able to determine that the burrows we had chosen to observe sat in the middle of a flood plain. My heart felt heavy as I looked for signs of life and questioned if the endangered species that once called this home had been overcome by a flood, or had they escaped to higher ground?  

Face To Face?

My time in croc country was quickly coming to a close and I had yet to see the world's largest reptile. I had seen plenty of signs, warnings, and even an imprint--but no sightings of the elusive animal.It was for this reason that we broke up camp at 4:30 am in the pitch dark. I energetically encouraged Mark to hurry up, since I didn't want to miss the boat. I anxiously anticipated that our trip along the Yellow Water Billabong would finally put an end to my quest to spot one of the terrors of the north. Unfortunately, the tour operator had assured us a unique experience--lots for birds and magnificent flora--but could not guarantee a face to face encounter with the ferocious giants.

Along with several dozen other bleary eyed travelers we stood in line to board the bus that would take us to the boat ramp. It appeared that most of our fellow passengers had spent the night in the lodge or taken a morning shower since they frantically swatted at the millions of mosquitos that descended upon us. Fortunately, in the predawn hours, we had used plenty of Off before we even left the tent. As a result it was the first time in 12 hours the pesky bugs were ignoring us--they had plenty of other sources to quench their bloody thirst.
The short road to the dock remained flooded--the remnants of a wet season that had extended well beyond its normal period. I couldn't help but wonder if the high waters would increase our chances of seeing a croc. Just as we boarded the boat the sun began to make itself visible on the horizon. As it made its gradual climb in the sky it brushed the grey canvas with various shades of reds, yellows and oranges.

As promised our cruise through Kakadu's most famous wetland, Yellow Water Billabong, was fruitful-- White Bellied Sea Eagle, Australian Darter, Ibis, Kingfisher, Kingfisher, Whistling Ducks, Jacana, and Jabiru were all spotted. The sing song of the different species of birds added a musical symphony to the painted landscape that lay before us--a work of art only achievable by mother nature.

Of course, for me the highlight of the trip was the sighting of several crocs. The first one was a very large male who became agro and began swatting the water as we approached. Even from a distance I was amazed by his size  and happy that we hadn't run into him on the trail. Just before we turned around and headed back to the docks a spiny back broke the lagoon surface just in front of us; he was lovely enough to hang around for some photo ops. 

Keep Your Eyes Open

I had some technical difficulties, so I am running late this week.

This week's photohunter theme is hard to find.

I know some South Australians who have lived in SA and never seen a Southern Hairy-nosed Wombat in the wild. I spotted this hard to find animal as we cruised down the highway at 100 km an hour. Mark didn't believe that I had seen one, but I convinced him to turn the car around. Sure enough there amongst several rabbits was a normally nocturnal animal having brekkie.

The Southern Hairy-nosed Wombat is one of three species of wombats. The South Australian State Animal is found in scattered areas of semi-arid scrub and mallee from the eastern Nullarbor Plain to the New South Wales border area.  The large, pudgy, burrowing mammals have sharp claws that they use to dig burrows in open grasslands and eucalyptus forests. They are marsupials and they give birth to tiny, undeveloped young that crawl into pouches on their mothers' bellies, where they will remain for about five months.  The pouch is different from other marsupials since they face backward so no dirt gets in when it is tunneling.Wombats do not have many natural predators and man is their greatest enemy. Destruction of their natural habitat as well as hunting, trapping, and poisoning has severely reduced the wombat's population in many areas, and has completely eradicated it in others. In most parts of Australia the wombat is now protected, with the exception of parts of eastern Victoria where it is classified as vermin and often shot.

Kakadiles

As we drove from Litchfield Park towards Kakadu Park, my crocodile fears began to return. It didn't help that the National Park was known for its crocs and that at the entrance we were greeted by a large sign warning of the eminent danger. However, with the fear came excitement and my eyes frantically darted left and right scanning the bush and waterways for the infamous creature.

Our first destination was the South Alligator River. The name is a bit of a misnomer since any large reptiles living in its waters would be crocodiles not alligators! The track to the river skirts a seasonal billabong. Due to the late spring rains there was still some water in the area. With the sun high in the sky there was not much activity, but we suspected that the area was an oasis for wildlife and birds during sunrise and sunset. After a short 2.5 km hike from the campground we arrived at the river. Signs warning of crocodiles kept me from approaching the water. Instead I stayed high on the bank and peered down at the river through the trees.

On our return trek to the campground I noticed just to the side of the trail a huge imprint in the dried mud. I couldn't help but wonder if the several meter long print was left by a croc? When I pointed it out to Mark, he argued that we were hundreds meter from the river and there was no way that impression was left by a gigantic reptile. However, later that evening while telling yarns with some fellow campers we learned that up to just a couple of weeks before the Alligator River had over-flowed and had reached the campground .  While this information allowed me to gloat over the possibility that what we saw earlier was a print left by a croc, at the same time I began to wonder if sleeping in a tent was a wise idea. Maybe there was a reason everyone had congregated in the center of the campgrounds? Would  our solitude would make us easy prey for a hungry predator. Ahhhhh, the thrill of the Australian bush. 

A Cruise With Temptation

It is not uncommon to see dolphins swimming in the waters around Glenelg. On a cool fall morning last year I headed out on Temptation Cruises hoping to get a closer view of the magnificent animal. I am not much of a water lover, so I skipped the opportunity to swim with the dolphins, though there were a couple of brave souls that took to the waters. The cruise was a success and in the 3.5 hours that I was aboard the 58ft catamaran I saw over a dozen different dolphins

Most of our sighting were of bottlenose dolphins. Some of the mammals were on their own and others were in pods. The color of the bottlenose dolphin varies considerably, but generally this type of dolphin is light to slate grey. In our waters these animals can grow up to 2.8 meters long and weigh as much as 270 kilograms. The South Australian bottlenose dolphin’s diet primarily consist of fish and squid. They eat approximately 8 kilogram each day. They generally hunt individually, but when a food source is found pods will work together. I am glad that I did not resist Temptation, a memory that will last a lifetime.

New Zealand Fur Seal

New Zealand fur seals are found in Australia, New Zealand and some sub-Antarctic islands. This guy was seen on Kangaroo Island-- home to over 30,000 of the eared seals. 

The New Zealand fur seal is distinguished from Australian fur seals by their smaller size and darker coloration. The bulls can reach up to 2.5 meters in length and weigh between 120-180 kilograms. The cows are much smaller and do not exceed 1.5 meters in length and they weigh between 35-50 kilograms.

New Zealand Fur seals feed mainly on squid and octopus during the summer months, and fish during the winter. Occasionally they will supplement their diet with small birds. Fur seals feed over vast distances and females are often away from the colony for several days before returning to feed their pups.

Fur seals were hunted in the early 1800's for their dense fur coats and blubber. An estimated 1.5 million of the animals were killed between 1792 and 1948. Today New Zealand fur seals are a protected animal though they remain on the list of Vulnerable Species.

SA Wave

The bright sun called me to the balcony, but whether or not I would open the doors was yet to be decided. The gentle rolling in waves from the northwest suggested I might be able to sit outside for my morning coffee. Sure enough, as I opened the doors I was greeted with a warm breeze. 

As I stood and took in the beauty around me I noted that the bike path and beaches were relatively empty. I knew that it wouldn't be long until the scene before me filled with people.  A smile came to my lips as I imagined the dozens of walkers, runners, rollerbladers and cyclist cruising the urban trail all at their own speed. I easily envisioned each of them frantically waving their hand in a sweeping motion across their faces. From my vantage point this simple motion would appear to be a friendly gesture--perhaps the result of the hormonal surge driven by the arrival of spring--but for those who have walked the urban jungle there is the understanding that this is not a symbol of friendship or love. Instead, it is a gesture that attempts to ward off the evil creatures that the warm winds bring in from the bush. The battle between human and the australian fly will have begun. 

It seems so unfair that the warm winds of the north beckon us to revel outdoors, and at the same time they torture us by bringing the pesky bush fly to our urban setting. Oh, how I loath the little creature that continuously attempts to crawl into my mouth, ears and nose. Waves, salutes, and swats seem to have no effect on the irritating pests; in fact, the only way to be rid of them seems to be by adding them to one's diet and ingesting them whole. Fortunately, for now I will be granted respite from the unpleasant critters swarming the streets below since it appears that bush flies are afraid of heights. However, I know there is a battle awaiting me once I step out into the urban jungle.

Sulphur-crested Cockatoo

The Sulphur-crested Cockatoo is one of Australia's best known parrot. Its white plumage is highlighted by  distinctive yellow crest and the underside of its wings are tinged yellow.

This naturally curious birds is found in a variety of timbered habitats throughout northern, eastern and southwestern part of the continent. They are tend to avoid arid inland areas with few trees.    

The Sulphur-crested Cockatoo's diet consist of berries, seeds, nuts and roots. Feeding normally takes place in small to large groups, with one or more member of the group watching for danger from a nearby perch. Each day the flock returns to the same area until the food supply is exhausted.  When not feeding, the birds will bite off smaller branches and leaves from trees. However, these items are not eaten, but rather an activity to help keep the bill trimmed and from growing too large. 

Near urban areas the species is often considered a pest  because they can be destructive to timber structures and many people find their distinctive raucous call annoying. 

A Light At The End Of The Tunnel

This week's PhotoHunt theme is dark.

A dark, humid limestone cave in Tasmania is the perfect place to look for glow-worms. 

Glow worms are not really worms, but the luminous larval stage of a fungus gnat. One can only assume that the misnomer  is due to the fact that glow-worm sounds more aesthetically pleasing than glow-larva.

Glow-worms can be found in the rainforests, caves and abandoned gold mines of Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria and Tasmania. 

The small insects do glow as a result of chemical reaction in their abdomen produces a cold blue light. 

The bioluminescent taillight is used to lure insects to the glow-worm's elaborate traps which consist of anywhere between 10 to 50 plus vertical hanging threads of silk studded with sticky droplets of mucous.

The life cycle of a glow worm involves four stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult fly.  Eggs are laid in small batches directly onto the walls of the site. Depending on the seasonal conditions at the time of egg-laying, the emergence of larvae from the eggs can take anywhere from three to six weeks to hatch. Due to the proximity of eggs laid in each small batch, cannibalism is common if there is a lack of an alternative food source for the larvae.

What You Don't Know Could Kill You

This week's theme is stripes.

When I came across this guy taking a nap on the Eyer Peninsula I had no idea that it is the 5th most venomous snake in the world and probably the fastest of all Australian snakes when it comes to striking a victim. I also was unaware that unlike most snakes, the Death Adder will not necessarily retreat from humans. Now that I understand how dangerous a Death Adder can be, the next time I come across a snake with dark brown and black stripes I will be more cautious.

The Common Death Adders, which can reach 100 centimeters in length, are found over much of eastern and coastal southern Australia. Their natural habitat includes forest, woodlands, grasslands and heathlands. Due to its band stripes, it is a master of camouflage and can easily hide underneath leaf litter and debris. 

Only In Australia

This week's PhotoHunt theme is natural.

Wombats can be found only in Australia.  Unfortunately, they are rather timid and primarily nocturnal, so it is often difficult to observe them in their "natural" habitat. We were lucky enough to come across this guy in Tasmania when he ventured out on a cool afternoon for a feed.

The large, pudgy, burrowing mammals are found across south-eastern Australia and Tasmania. They have sharp claws that they use to dig burrows in open grasslands and eucalyptus forests. They can grow to be a meter in length and weigh between 17-40 kg.

They are marsupials and they give birth to tiny, undeveloped young that crawl into pouches on their mothers' bellies, where they will remain for about five months.  The pouch is different from other marsupials since they face backward so no dirt gets in when it is tunneling.

Wombats do not have many natural predators and man is their greatest enemy. Destruction of their natural habitat as well as hunting, trapping, and poisoning has severely reduced the wombat's population in many areas, and has completely eradicated it in others. In most parts of Australia the wombat is now protected, with the exception of parts of eastern Victoria where it is classified as vermin and often shot.

He May Look Innocent

When I saw this little guy on the trail I didn't think much of him. It turns out that he is a very toxic little guy.  The Mouse Spider, indigenous to Australia, can be found throughout the continent except in the southern rain forest of Tasmania.

Mouse Spiders are distinguished by the stocky body, long leg-like palps and two knee-like lobes which the fags join in front. The male has a vibrant red head. The spiders measure 1 cm to 3 cm in length so they are not very large, but they can be aggressive. If angered or threatened they will rush backward and forward. During their rushing movement they will open and close their fangs which permits venom to escape. Fortunately, envenoming by this species of spiders are rare.

The home of the Mouse Spider is a burrow, of moderate depth and straight down. Female spiders spend all of their lives in the burrow. 

Mouse Spiders prey mainly on insects, though they can consume small animals. Their primary predators include wasps, bandicoots, centipedes and scorpions. 

Unexpected Discovery

Our first trip to Dryandra was not completely fruitless. On the final leg of our hike, just as we were about to leave the forest for the car-park I spied this "little" guy. I think the primarily nocturnal reptile was trying to escape the heat.  

The non-venomous Carpet Python is named for their beautiful markings. Their color and pattern vary greatly. Eastern populations are pale or dark brown to olive-green, with irregular dark-edged cream to pale yellowish blotches. Other populations can be grey or reddish with darker blotches.

The medium-sized python can grow up to 3.6 meters (12 feet) in length and with up to 15 kilograms.  The average adult measures 2.4 meters (8 feet) long.  

Their diet consists of a variety of birds, bats lizards, and small mammals. They kill their prey by constricting it until it suffocates.  They are often the largest predator in their ecological community. 

You can find carpet pythons in heavily timbered areas from Western Australia through the top Northern Territory, though to the eastern states. They like to hide among leaf litter in tree hollows, logs and rocky crevices.  

If you find yourself in Dryandra in search of numbats you may want to take care because even though the Carpet Python is not venomous they can give a painful bite.    

Hunting For Numbats

Oh! How I wanted to go to Monkey Mia, but our previous trip to Western Australia had taught me that 700+ km was just too far. So I hit the tourist office and tried to find something a little closer. As I perused the pamphlets of day excursions, one donning a striped chipmunk-like critter caught my eye. I read through the brochure I could barely contain my excitement.  Less than 2 hours from Perth was Dryandra Woodland--home of the numbat. I made up my mind and the following Sunday we were going on a numbat hunt.

As we sat on the portico of a local cafe eating a big brekkie we knew the day was gonna be a hottie.  The sun was still low on the horizon, but the temperature in the shade was already becoming unbearable. But I wasn't going to let a little heat deter me; I was determined to see a numbat.

We found relief from the heat in the air-conditioned car as we followed the Great Southern Highway south.  We slowly made our way out of one of the world's most isolated cities and began to cross the wheat belt.  For miles on end we passed through the fields of heavy-headed, golden, sun-dried wheat stalks. As I looked out the window at the horizon it was hard to believe that somewhere in the distance we would find a magnificent wandoo forest--the remnant of a time before farming. Fortunately, the brochure didn't lie and about 1.5 hours outside of Perth a forest appeared on the horizon.  

The final approach to the trail we had planned to hike, was on an unsealed road.  As we turned off the air-con and rolled down the windows we were greeted with a blast of hot air.  It was well into the upper 30's.  We weren't too worried since the trail we were going to walk was short--only 5.5 km--and we had our hats, sunnies, sunblock and plenty of water.  

As we hit the trail I was taken back by the beauty that surrounded me. The variety and contrast of the trees was extraordinary. We passed through groves of powderbarks (with their powder skin cover), rock sheoak (with their dense weeping foliage), salmon gum (with their creamy orange trunks), and banksia (with their twisted and gnarled trunks). The meandering trail slowly climbed the laterite breakaways--rocky, flat-topped hills. Eventually, we re-entered the open woodland. Here amongst the hollow fallen trees I searched for the small marsupial found only in this part of the world. Unfortunately, probably due to the heat, this normally diurnal animal was nowhere to be found.  I couldn't help but feel disappointed as the circular trail returned us to our car. However, with the national park's proximity to Perth I new that we would one day return.

A 'Roo Of A Different Color

All across Australia you will find kangaroos.  However, it is not everyday that you will come across an Albino kangaroo.  In fact, these white furred and often pink eyed marsupials are quiet rare.  Their albinism is the result  of partial or total lack of melanin pigment in the eyes, skin and hair.  The lack of enough dark pigment melanin makes their skin sensitive to sunlight and they are susceptible to sunburn.  Lack of melanin in the eye also causes vision problems.  These health issues paired with the animals' lack of camouflage to hide them from predators means that very few survive in the wild.

He May Be Hot, But He Doesn't Breath Fire

When surfing Wave Rock it is important to keep your eyes open because more than likely you will see an ornate dragon.  However, no need to worry that a fire-breathing creature will snatch you up while you are surfing since the striped lizards are about the size of you foot.  This species of lizard belongs to the Agamidae family, and can only be found in Western Australia. They are a common sight on the many granite outcrops of the southern part of the state.  When out in the open, basking on the warm rocks, they often display a head bobbing characteristic.  When the head bobbing is accompanied by a push-up like movement, the dragon is engaging in a mating ritual. The movement allows them to display their chest and throat region thereby transmitting information about attractiveness and availability to potential mates. 

It's That Time Of The Year

When the winds begin to blow and the rains arrive in Southern Australia, the locals know it is time to breakout the binos and head for the coast.  Every year between late May and October hundreds of Southern Right Whales approach the southern coast to give birth, mate and socialize.  One of the best places to view the whales is from the the Great Australian Bight.

The Bight is a an open bay located off the central and western portions of the southern coastline of Australia.  It consists of a coast line that is characterized by sheer cliffs that drop up to 60 meters to the ocean.  The height of the rock platforms make it an ideal location for whale watching.  However, the best vantage point to watch whales is probably at the Head Of the Bight, which is located 78 kilometers west of Yalata a 20 kilometers east of the Nullarbor Roadhouse (over 800 km from Adelaide).  

The Head of the Bight is accessible by a sealed road.  The facilities include a a visitor center with useful information about whales, restrooms, a water tank, and a covered picnic area.  However, the highlight of the center is the meandering boardwalk that allows visitors to come within meters of the water.  From the viewing platforms you can see the giants of the sea slapping their tails, breaching, blowing and rolling belly up--and you can even hear them breathing.
Last year we were fortunate enough to visit the Head of the Bight when we drove to Adelaide from to Perth.  You can read about our visit to the center here and/or our drive more than halfway across the country here.