A Loosing Battle

This week's theme is technology.

To the west of the city, Adelaide is bordered by 28 km of beach.  Many of the central and southern metropolitan beaches are greatly effected by storm erosion, leaving parts of the shore with very narrow beaches and waterfront properties with very little protection.  Beach replenishment--the replacing of thousands of tons of sand by trucking, dredging or pumping--is an annual procedure in an attempt to preserve and protect the coastline.  Prior to the human settlement of the of the coastal areas, the beaches were naturally replenished.  However, as coastal development occurred, the natural process was disturbed.  In 1973, man made technological replenishment activities were implemented to protect roads and houses along the coast.  This is an ongoing process.  Each day, as I run along the coast next to sand carting vehicles and human made sand dunes, I can't help but think that this is one battle in which technology will not overcome Mother Nature.

Movember

Earlier this month when my husband saw me off on my three week trip to visit my parents he had started to grow a beard.  I was a bit shocked. After all, in the sixteen years of knowing Mark, he has never allowed for more than a couple of days of growth to occur.  You may wonder why this sudden change.  It wasn't related to my leaving, but rather to an act of solidarity with the thousands of other Australian men who grow moustaches during the month of November to help raise awareness and funds for men's health.  What began as an excuse to bring back the mo (Australian slang for moustache), has turned into a global movement.

Each November--Movember--men who wish to become a "Mo Bro" start the month with a clean shaven face.  Throughout the month they then grow a moustache.  It is important to note that it must be a moustache, and as my husband found out, beards don't count.   With their changing face men are encouraged to talk about their own health.  Friends and families show support by in the form of donations.  The culmination of the event are "Gala Partes," where Mo Bros dress up--their costumes shed light on the inspiration for their Mos (i.e. a bloke with a Sherlock Holmes style Mo will don a deerstalker cap)--celebrate in style.

If you'd like to find out more about Movember you can visit the official website.

The Foot Of A Nomad

This week's photo hunt is birds.

This ferocious talon belongs to an emu.  It is fitting that the largest bird in the Australia has such a prehistoric looking foot since it has been walking the continent for over 80 million years.  If you'd like to read more about emus see my post Look At That Birdie In A Tutu.

Adelaide, My Home Town

Several weeks ago I entered a contest over at slowtravel.  The contest gave contestants an opportunity to submit a list  and photos of the top 10 things you would take a visitor to do, that cost $20 or less, within 30 miles of their front door.  This week in the site's newsletter I was announced winner of the contest.  The following is my entry.

A year and a half ago, when my husband was offered a job in Adelaide we had to pull out the map.  We knew it was located in Australia, but had no idea where.  I now know it is located on the southern coast of Australia, and I have been calling its suburb Glenelg home for over a year.   Adelaide may not make it on the highlight tour of Australia, but I have come to view it as my own little oasis in a "big sunburned country".  These are the special places that I have found and come to love, and that I would like to share not only with my personal friends and family, but also with those people I have yet to meet in the cyber world.

*AUD=Australian Dollar

1.  Adelaide Botanical Gardens
Description
A visit to the Adelaide Botanical Gardens is more than a walk in the park.   Founded in 1855, the gates were opened to the public in 1857.  The gardens were designed with some of the great gardens of Europe, including Versailles, in mind.  Many of the original trees remain in the park today.  Visitors are treated to a variety of gardens that showcase native and exotic plants that thrive in a dry Mediterranean climate.  There are also indoor buildings where the plants of the more temperate Australian forest can be appreciated.
A free guided tour enables Visitors to distinguish the native flora of Australia, and to better understand the devastating effects that the current drought is causing on both native and introduced plant species.
After a tour around the gardens and Pavilions, visitors should stop in at the National Wine Center of Australia, located at the south-east corner of the gardens.  Here they can take the interactive Wine Discovery Journey.  After browsing the exhibits, visitors can taste local Adelaide Hill's wines for $11 AUD.

Opening Times 
Monday thru Friday 7am to sunset
Weekends 9am to sunset

Admission
Gardens
Free
Free guided walks daily at 10:30am from the Schomburgk Pavilion
National Wine Center of Australia
Free
Wine tasting $11 AUD

Location
North Terrace Adelaide (9.8 km from Glenelg)
By car-Take Anzac Highway east to West Terrace, turn left.   Turn right on North Terrace.
By Public Transportation-Take tram from Mosley Square to Adelaide Rail Station.   Walk east on North Terrace.

Contact
Website: www.botanicgardens.sa.gov.au
Website: www.wineaustralia.com.au

2. Adelaide Central Market
Description
The Adelaide Central Market first opened its doors on January 23rd, 1869 at 3:15 a.m.  By 6:00 a.m. over 500 buyers had visited the vendors and all the stock was gone.  The market did not have its official opening until January 22nd, of the following year.  And it wasn't until nearly 30 years later that the first stone was laid to build a permanent home for this vegetable, fruit, fish and meat market.
Today the original facade still stands.  The Market boasts the title of Australia's largest of its kind.   It contains over 80 stalls specializing in fresh meats, seafood, cheeses, olive oils, nuts, bread and produce, as well as small goods, ethnic supplies and café foods.  The Adelaide Market is one of the few places in town where shoppers can find a wide variety of feral meats: kangaroo, wallaby, camel, emu, and crocodile.  Visitors can stroll the many aisles imbibing the pulsating sounds, vibrant colors, and wonderful smells that make the market a must see for all tourists to Adelaide.

Opening Times
Tuesdays 7am to 5:30pm
Thursdays 9am to 5:30pm
Fridays 7am to 9pm
Saturdays 7am to 3pm

Admission
Free

Location 
Gouger St. (9.5 km from Glenelg)
By car-Take Anzac Highway east to South Terrace, turn right.  Turn left on King Williams to Victoria Square.
By Public Transportation-Take tram from Mosley Square to Victoria Square.

Contact
Website: www.adelaidecentralmarket.com.au

3. Austral Hotel
Description
A trip to the Austral  Hotel will allow the visitor to better understand Australian Beer drinking culture.  Many tourists are surprised to find that a bar is often called a hotel, and that they probably do not have Fosters on tap.  Historically, hotels were the first structures built in newly colonized areas and they served multiple functions while the towns around them were constructed.  Today, Hotels continue to play the multi-purpose role serving alcoholic beverages and food and some provide accommodations, pokies (slot machines) and bottle shops.
Housed in a 19th century colonial building with a bar, restaurant, and bottle shop, the Austral Hotel provides a better understanding of the central role of in Australia.  The wedges, a scrumptious Australian staple,  and a local beer are a must for all first time visitors.

Opening Times
Monday to Wednesday 11:00am to 1:00am
Thursday to Saturday 11:00am to 2:00am
Sunday 11:00am to 11:00pm

Admission
Free
Wedges and a Beer $15 AUD

Location
205 Rundle Street  (9.4 km from Glenelg)
By car-Take Anzac Highway east to West Terrace, turn left.   Turn right on North Terrace.  Turn right on West Terrace.  Turn right on Rundle St.
By Public Transportation-Take tram to Rundle Mall.   Walk east on Rundle St.

Contact
Tel: 61 8 8223 4660

4. Belair National Park
Description
Belair National Park is the birthplace of the national park system in South Australia--it was the first national park in SA--and was dedicated in 1891.  Located in the hills of Adelaide, the park is the perfect place for a city break, and it provides visitors with a chance to experience the Australian Bush. With several different trails to choose from visitors are able to take a bushwalk that ranges from 30 minutes to 3 hours.  Observant hikers may spot echidnas, skinks, kookaburras, koalas, kangaroos, and emus.  There are numerous picnic areas throughout the park, and many offer a gas grill free of charge for those that would like to have an Australian Barbie.  

Opening Times
Daily 8:00am to sunset (except Christmas)

Admission
$8.00 AUD per vehicle
Free if you arrive by train

Location
Adelaide Hills  (15.3 km from Glenelg)
By car-Take Diagonal Road east.  Turn left at Sturt Road.  Turn Right at Shepherds Hill road.  Turn left at Main Road.
By Public Transportation-Take tram from Mosley Square to Goodwood Station.   Transfer to Belair train. The park is located at the last stop.

Contact
Tel: 961 80 8278 5477
Website: www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/sanpr/belair/index.html

5. Cleland Wildlife Park
Description
Cleland Wildlife Park is home to some of the city's more wild inhabitants. It is a great place for visitors to become familiar with the fauna of Australia. Located in the bushland setting of the Adelaide hills ,visitors are able to walk through large enclosures feeding Kangaroos, Wallabies, Emus, Bandicoots, and Water Fowl. There is a special area where Koalas can be petted, and for an additional fee they can also be held.  Other native Australian animals-- Tasmanian Devils, Dingoes, Wombats, Echidnas, and Reptiles--are housed at the wild life park and can be observed from a distance in their recreated natural habitats.

Opening Times
Daily (except Christmas day and days of total fire ban) 9:30am to 5pm

Admission
Adult  $16 AUD
Child $9.50 AUD
Feed for animals $3.00 AUD

Location
Mount Lofty Summit Road (17.4 km from Glenelg)
By car-Take the South Eastern Freeway east.  Exit the freeway at Crafers, turn left at the roundabout and follow Summit Road to the Cleland Wildlife Park turnoff.  The route is well marked.
By Public Transportation-Take tram from Mosley Square to Rundell Mall.  Transfer to bus 864F (stop D1 Currie Street, north side).  Transfer to bus 823 (stop 24 Crafers Ramp) and travel to last stop Cleland Wildlife Park.

Contact
Tel: (08) 8339 2444
Email: clelandwildlife@saugov.au
Website: www.clelandwildlifepark.sa.gov.au

6. Hahndorf
Description
Settled in 1839 by Lutherans who left Prusia to escape religious persecution, Hahndorf is Australia's oldest surviving German settlement.  Visitors can stroll  down the charming tree-lined main street appreciating the original buildings and the everlasting German traditions that the town has maintained.  Stop in at the Cafe Assiette for a traditional Brautwurst lunch.
In addition to absorbing the rich cultural heritage of the town, visitors may also tour famed Australian landscape artist Hans Heysen's studio and house.    A few of his captivating paintings of the Flinders Ranges are on display.

Opening Times
Most shops
Daily 9am to 5pm
Cafe Assiette
Daily 8:30am to 8pm
The Cedars
Tuesday thru Sunday 10am to 4:30pm

Admission
Free
Cafe Assiette
Brautwurst lunch at $11.80 AUD
Hans Heysen's House (the Cedars) $
4 AUD (guided tours additional fees)

Location
Mount Barker Road (36 km from Glenelg)
By car-Take the South Eastern Freeway east to the Mount Barker Rd exit.  Turn left and follow signs to Hahndorf.
By Public Transportation-Take tram from Mosley Square to Rundell Mall.  Transfer to bus 864F (stop D1 Currie Street, north side).  Travel to stop 55 .

Contact
Cafe Assiette
Tel: (08) 8388 7160
The Cedars
       Tel: (08) 8388 7277
        Website:  www.hansheysen.com.au

7. Haigh's Chocolate Visitor Center
Description
Haigh's Chocolate Company was established in 1915 and is Australia's oldest chocolate manufacturer.  It continues to be family owned, though it has outgrown the original Beehive Corner Shop, located in downtown Adelaide and is now located just on the outskirts of the Central Business District.  Throughout the facility, original packaging, old machinery, and early photographs can be viewed as well as a display that shows  the company's  support and commitment to environmental causes.
A guided tour provides the rich history of the company, information on how chocolate is made, and a tour of the facility where you can see skilled craftsmen and craftswomen engaging in the delightful task of making candy by hand.  Of course, the tour ends with a sampling of Haigh's Chocolates and opportunity to buy some of the scrumptious chocolates to take home.

Opening Times
Monday thru Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm
Saturday 9:00am to 5:00pm

Admission
Free
Free Guided Tour daily 11:00am, 1:00pm, 2:00pm
Bookings essential Tel: (08) 8372 7070   Email: visitors@haighs.com.au

Location
154 Greenhill Road (9.3 km from Glenelg)
By car-Take Anzac Highway east to Greenhill Road turn right.
By Public Transportation-Take tram from Mosley Square to Rundell Mall.  Transfer to bus 191, 192, 195, or 196 (stop c3 King William Street, east side).  Travel to stop 1 on Unley Road.

Contact
Tel: (08) 8372 7070
Email: visitors@haighs.com.au
Website: www.haighschocolate.com

8.  Port Adelaide
Description
What was once a main gateway to Southern Australia, continues to be a working seaport.  In 1982, Port Adelaide was declared a State Heritage Area, and it is home to many impressive colonial buildings.   A self-guided tour--be sure to pick up a brochure at the tourist office-- will take visitors through the historic streets of town, allowing them to view the fine collection of nineteenth century buildings; wharf sheds, hotels, warehouses, lofts, customs buildings, banks, churches,Town Hall, and the light house.  Each of these buildings is unique in character and played an important role in the development of Southern Australia.

Opening Times
Tourist Office
Daily 9am to 5pm (closed Christmas Day)

Admission
Free

Location
Commercial Road (15.4 km from Glenelg)
By car-Take Tapley Hill Road north, turn left at Port Road.
By Public Transportation-Take tram from Mosley Square to Train Station.  Transfer to train Outer Harbour line to Port Adelaide.

Contact
Website: www.portenf.sa.go.au

9.  South Australian Museum
Description
Visitors to the museum are offered the opportunity to walk through time browsing collections that cover both the cultural and natural heritage of Southern Australia.  The museum boasts the largest Aboriginal cultural exhibition in the world.  Through interactive displays, visitors are able to learn about how the many many facets of life of the different indigenous cultures of Australia--we often erre in thinking of the aboriginals as just one culture.  The outstanding collection of artifacts, video clips, and photographs leave  the visitor with a better understanding of the first inhabitants of this enthralling land.

Opening Times
Daily 10am-5pm (except Good Friday and Christmas Day)

Admission
Free
Free tours
Monday-Friday 11am
Saturday, Sunday & Public Holidays 2pm & 3pm

Location 
North Terrace Adelaide (9.6 km from Glenelg)
By car-Take Anzac Highway east to West Terrace, turn left.   Turn right on North Terrace.
By Public Transportation-Take tram to Adelaide Rail Station.   Walk east on North Terrace

Contact
Tel: 61-8-8207 7500
Website: www.samuseum.sa.gov.au

10. Sunset @ Glenleg Jetty
Description
The end of the 215 meter (705 foot) long jetty at Glenelg is the perfect place to watch the sunset over Holdfast Bay.  Visitors can stand on the end of the pier, enjoying a magical sunset while they contemplate the fact that the closest neighbor to the south is Antarctica, over 7,000 km  away.  On calm evenings, a dolphin or two may frolic in the water below the pier.  For those who want a bit more of an adventure, head over to Temptation Sailing at the marina.  For $24 AUD you can get a sunset cruise that is often accompanied by one or more of the many pods of dolphins that live in the bay.

Opening Times
Time varies by season

Admission
Free
Temptation Sailing
Sunset Cruise $24 AUD

Location 
End of jetty road  (0km from Glenelg)

Contact
Website: www.dolphinboat.com.au

A Kingdom Ruled By A Monarchy

We had arrived a couple of days early; the winter kingdom of the monarch butterfly was not open to the general public.  The sanctuary El Rosio, in Michoacan Mexico,  was adamant that visitors would not be admitted until the weekend. Fortunately, a persistent host and a few extra greenbacks convinced the caretaker of one of the much smaller sanctuaries to allow us a private entry to the sacred lands.
As we began our  adventure I couldn't help but feel honored that not only had we been granted permission to enter this enchanted forest, but, apart from our two guides, my mother and I would be alone with thousands of butterflies.  We were not permitted to make the journey by foot, my preferred mode of transportation. Instead I found myself seated upon a scrawny horse.  I know it was to charge us more, but who was I to complain; after all we had already been granted  a privilege that I had dreamed about for years.  I was able to walk part of the way by switching places with my guide, but in the end the scrawny horse turned out to be a blessing in disguise since the rough journey took over 2 hours and climbed over 3,500 feet.
As we ascended the steep slopes and went deeper into the wooded forest our guides described our surroundings and the effect that illegal logging had had on the area.  We were told how the community had come together to protect the forest, and how they would actively search out anyone who cut down trees.
The views from the trail were spectacular.  As we neared the top of the hill we were required to leave the horses and finish the journey on foot.  Suddenly the trail in front of us filled with hundreds of dancing butterflies.  I gasped in delight.  However, the true spectacle was not on the trail, but high in the branches of the surrounding tall firs.  When Jesus pointed upward, at first I thought he was showing me the size of the boughs that were gently swaying in the mid-morning breeze.  But there was no breeze, and the boughs were not heavy with pine needles. Instead, there were thousands of butterflies sitting on the branches.  Slowly they fluttered their wings, still tired from the 2,000+ journey they have just made from north of the border. Just a week earlier, the first butterflies had arrived at the sanctuary marking the beginning of the yearly The Day of the Dead celebration.  For the locals, the butterflies represent the return of their departed loved ones to the terrestrial realm.

Our guides encouraged us to lay on the ground so that we could fully appreciate our surroundings.  At first the butterflies movements were sluggish, but as the early morning sun warmed the air the slow pulsating of their wings became more rapid. Gradually the small creatures took to the sky and our surroundings came alive.  The air thick with movement which brought a gentle hum to our ears.  I have never seen a forest so alive. At first I felt as though I was intruding on a sacred ceremony, but then one of mother nature's small creatures landed on my hand, inviting me to join in the celebration of a life.

Tim Tams Go Global

Who can resist a layer of whipped chocolate cream sandwiched between two chocolate biscuits and dipped in chocolate fudge? Not an Australian, that's for sure!  With over 30 million packets of these chocolate bikkies sold Down Under there is no denying that Australian love their Tim Tams.  I have to admit that even I, who tends to shun processed foods, have become a fan of this Aussie Household name.
I have come to like the scrumptious munchie so much that last week I carefully packed a handbag full of Tim Tams and hand carried them with me on my long journey across the Pacific Ocean.  I wanted to share my new found love with friends and family.  You can only imagine the shock I felt when, on my first visit to an American grocery store, there at the head of isle 1 was a display of Tim Tams!!  But wait, the name was correct but the packaging different. A closer look at the package showed that the cookie was not being produced by Arnotts's. "How dare Pepperidge Farm bastardize one of "Australia's National Icons," quickly passed through my mind.  Actually, I can not comment on the quality of this American biscuit because I have yet to try them.

In Australia Tim Tams are produced by Arnott's. Over the past year I have repeatedly read and heard about Arnott's and its importance in Australian history.  After all it has been around since 1875.  Of course my shock and anger caused me to come home and investigate how and why an Australian Company came to sell out.  You can imagine my horror when I discovered that, yes, the company is originally Australian, but even after resisting a buy out by Nabisco in 1964, it succumbed to globalization in 1997 when it was acquired by Campbell Soup Company. Aren't they tricky by not including any mention of Campbell Soup on their label (yes I am one of those label readers.)  I don't need to tell you who is the parent company of Pepperidge Farm.
Oh well Mark, you better get your fill of Tim Tams while I am away, because in addition to their delicious taste, one of the reason I would buy it was because it was Australian owned, or so I thought.   As for friends and family, if I get you hooked on Tim Tams, welcome to the globalized world and now you can buy them yourselves here in the States.  But beware, they are seasonal and only available in the USA from October to March.

Here Lizard, Lizard, Lizard

The towering cliffs of Alligator Gorge and the emotional encounter with our first feral emu were left far behind, as we continued down the sandy creek bottom of  Mambray Creek in Mt. Remarkable National Park.  It was still early in the season, the longest day of the year several weeks away, but the hot sun beat down on us as we crossed the desolate landscape.  Anxious to arrive at the Hidden Gorge turn-off, Mark had left me several hundred meters behind.  I had just entered one of the few native pine forests in the canyon, when out of the corner of my eye I caught some movement.  I quickly froze and I could hear something scurrying up the tall tree.  I wondered if it could be a squirrel, even though I had yet to see one in Australia.   I couldn't think of any other animal that would be climbing a tree, and the truth be known I was relieved that it wasn't another emu--I had had my fill earlier in the morning. I cautiously left the path and began to walk, in a very large circle, around the tree.  I wanted a better view of who or what was there.  As I peeked around the trunk, I couldn't believe my eyes. I reached for my beloved camera, but  realized that Mark was carrying it.  I returned to the main path and in a low voice I called to Mark to quickly bring the camera.  Since I wasn't shrieking hysterically, he wanted to know what had piqued my interest enough for a photo.  When I informed him a I had to get a photo of a lizard he laughed and said that wasn't worth walking back for.  I assured him that this was not one of the tiny copper guys that we had seen earlier and that he really needed to return.  I think we both were in a bit of shock as we stood at the base of the tree looking at the meter long lizard hugging the tree in front of us.  I couldn't help but wonder if all Australian reptiles, especially snakes, were on steroids.

It turns out that we were looking at a lace monitor, or tree goanna, which is one of the largest lizards in the world.  It is not Australia's largest lizard--that title goes to the Perentie--but they can grow to be about 2 meters in length and weigh up to 20 kilos.  They have powerful limbs and  strong curved claws which make them versatile and they are able to run, swim and climb trees.  These carnivores can be found throughout eastern and into southeastern Australia in wooded habitats.  They are most active from September to May, and the females lay eggs in termite mounds.
We have since seen several of these grey with cream spotted lace monitors, but always in the same National Park.  However, we haven't done much hiking in the eastern part of the country.  So when hiking in the eastern/southeastern part of Australia keep your eyes open and, in the trees, you may come across one of these monster lizards.