Monday, December 28, 2009

Tiny Bubbles In My Red Wine...


When I was back in the States in November I was a bit surprised to find a bottle of Shingleback Sparkling Shiraz on one of the shelves of Fred Meyer Grocery Store.  I was surprised for two reasons.  First that Fred Meyer carried a family owned hand-crafted wine from a small vineyard in Southern Australia, and second because they carried a Sparkling Red.  I am no stranger to Red Bubbles, and have been drinking them for over a year.  In my experience this type of Sparkling Wine, and I am not referring to that Cold Duck from the 1970's, is unique to Australia (though I have read it is made in other parts of the world).  However, I do believe that it fairly unknown in the USA.  In fact when a friend of mine recently returned home after a visit to OZ and tried to find a bottle in a local liquor store she was told that no such thing existed.
Sparkling Reds are made in the same way as Sparkling Whites, but the big difference is that the skin is left in the fermenting juice.  In addition to affecting the color this process also leads to a more tannic wine that has to be sweetened later.
Another difference is that for Sparkling Whites the grape must be picked before those  used in making regular wine.  However, the grapes used to make Sparkling Red can remain on the vine until the regular wine grapes are picked.  The leaving of the grapes on the vine produces a richer flavor, and also produces a wine that is higher in alcohol content.
Sparkling Reds may not be for everyone, but if you enjoy a robust, full flavored wine with a special tingle you may want to look for a nice bottle of Red Bubbly.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

A First Class Experience

Life on the Indian Pacific was far from roughing it. About 30 minutes prior to departure we were shown to our cabins--which were typical in size of those that I had seen in Europe. The only difference was that I had the cabin to myself, and there was an en-suite bathroom. I was shown how to use the fold out commode and sink. I paid special attention because, even though it seemed straight forward, if you didn't flush and tilt correctly you could cause a blockage. I was also told that when at my evening meal my bed would be turned down and in the morning during breakfast my bed would be made up--now this was the life. The only thing left was choosing an early or late seating assignment for meals. Liz and I had agreed that we would go for the later option. First of all, she was coming from Spain and couldn't imagine dining before 7 p.m. Then there was the issue that we couldn't be bothered getting up too early in the morning. So with all the important details taken care of, I was able to settle into what would be my home for the next 48 hours.



As we pulled out of the station I was relieved to find that my cabin was facing forward. I could hear Liz in the corridor, and I knew she hadn't been so lucky. A drama was brewing. Fortunately, her Tour Guide was gracious enough to change cabins with her. It actually worked out for the best because now rather than being at opposite sides of the train car, we were next door to each other.
It wasn't long before it was announced that the red group was to report for lunch, and that at 2:00 the blue group--which included us--would report for an ice-breaker in the lounge. Uggh, these types of things normally drive me crazy and I was relieved that I had Liz to help me survive. Not only did she already know the people on the train with her tour group, but she is a social butterfly. In fact, as the announcement was being made I could hear her out in the hallway chatting it up with everyone that came by.
Over the next 2 day's Liz's social skills proved to be handy, as we became "consentidas" to the service staff. Not that service wasn't impeccable for all, it was just that we got a few extra "toques." Liz's gregarious character allowed us to meet some interesting people on board including: an American who had just sold his computer company and was out and about exploring the world, two adventurous British Gentlemen, a British Expat and his French Partner who enjoyed fine wines, and an Australian Couple celebrating 25 year of marriage.



The Australian couple actually were traveling in Platinum Service. This temporary service was a step up from Gold with a normal bed and a non-fold out commode. Between an invitation from our new friends, and special exception from the staff Liz and I were able to visit the Platinum Car, a privilege that was granted to no other Gold Class travelers.
Now there was one fear of my Indian Pacific Journey that I knew Liz could not solve. I had read several reviews that claimed that rough train lines, paired with continual stopping and going, made sleep impossible. Now if you ever have sat next to me on a long distance, overnight plane ride you may be laughing. After all, on my recent return flight from Oregon to Australia I curled up into a ball and slept a full 8 hours. The guy next to me said he had never seen anything like it. But still, I was nervous about not being able to sleep comfortably on the train., especially since I tend to be a bit grouchy when I haven't had a good night's sleep. However, instead of finding the rough tracks bothersome I spent two evenings being gently lulled to sleep as I looked out the Indian Pacific window at the immense star studded sky.



The Indian Pacific takes pride in being one of the great train journeys in the world, and for me it proved to be a first class experience.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Australian Essentials




This week's themes is 12.

Since my arrival in Australia I have learned that there are 12 things that I must have in my bag whenever I leave the house for an extended outing.

1. Star Map--The night sky in the Southern Hemisphere is different from the one I know, and I love to know what I am looking at.
2. Frocs (faux crocs)--When the red dirt turns to mud, it is ruthless.
3. Sunscreen--The sun Down Under is merciless.
4. Fly Net--When the wind blows from the north it brings hundreds of flies that love to t crawl up your nose or to be your next meal.
5. Light Weight Long Sleeve Shirt--Its not just your face that needs protection from the sun.
6. Water--I never leave home without it.
7. Brollie--Umbrella for us Yanks.  Comes in useful for the fast moving rainstorms of the rainy season, or to offer additional protection from the sun.
8. Sunnies--With the intense UVA/UVB rays you have to protect your eyes.
9. 12 Volt Water Heater (for cars)--Often you can go for miles on end without a place to stop for a cuppa joe.
10. Wide Brim Hat--Additional sun protection.  Always a must.
11. Binos--To get an up close look at all of Australia's wonderful Flora and Fauna.
12. Anti-Monkey Butt--Helps ward off blisters and heat rash--especially useful on those hot days and long hikes.

Friday, December 25, 2009

A Partridge And A Pear Tree


Well, I guess I got the title to this entry wrong it should have been titled "A Kookaburra Next To An Old Gum Tree", but I am still trying to get into the holiday season!

When I was a young child I used to listen to a record every night that consisted of popular children's poems and songs.  The record included the Kookaburra song.  Maybe you are familiar with the song and the lyrics are the following:

Kookaburra sits in the old gum tree
Merry, merry king of the bush is he
Laugh, Kookaburra! Laugh, Kookaburra!
Gay your life must be

Kookaburra sits in the old gum tree
Eating all the gum drops he can see
Stop, Kookaburra! Stop, Kookaburra!
Leave some there for me

Kookaburra sits in the old gum tree
Counting all the monkeys he can see
Stop, Kookaburra! Stop, Kookaburra!
That's not a monkey that's me

Kookaburra sits on a rusty nail
Gets a boo-boo in his tail
Cry, Kookaburra! Cry, kookaburra!
Oh how life can be

I always thought that a Kookaburra was an imaginary animal, and was surprised to learn many years later that they do exist.  Since moving to Oz I have had several opportunities to view the bird both in the wild and in captivity.
I have also had the pleasure of listening to their laugh--which starts as a low chuckle and progresses to an  ear piercing cackle.  The first time I head one I swore it was a Howler Monkey.  I prepared myself to soon have bananas hurled at us like in Costa Rica.  Mark wanted to know what a Monkey would be doing in a Eucalyptus Forest and the only explanation I could offer was that it had escaped from the zoo.  After what seemed like hours of scanning the trees we finally spotted the noise maker.
I know that their call is to establish territory, but whenever I hear it I can't help but feel like the animal is making fun of this Yank.  Especially since the boisterous laughter always happens at the most in-opportune times like when the hiking trail cuts across a golf course or when I got a case of severe heat rash with 3 hours on the trail left in front of us.

The Laughing Kookaburra is native to eucalyptus forests of Eastern Australia.   It is the largest member of the Kingfisher Family, and can weigh up to one pound.  The Kookaburra is carnivorous and uses its hard beak, that can grow up to 4 inches, to catch its prey.  Its stout body is cream colored, and its wings and back are brown with blue spots on the shoulders.  Its eyes are accentuated by a dark brown stripe, and a lighter one runs across the top of its head.  Its tail is reddish in color with black bars.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Out Of The Office

Every year Mark's company closes for the week between Christmas and New Years. This surprised us when we first found out, especially since he does not work for a small establishment and there are close to 300 employees. However, we soon discovered that it is common practice here in Australia for most companies, offices, and businesses.
At first we were a bit bothered by the fact that Mark would be forced to take vacation time. We like to use our vacation to travel (just incase you hadn't noticed) and usually avoid traveling in high season. I can't think of anything worse than traveling when the ankle-biters are loose. I much prefer hitting the road when the lil' ones are safely locked away at school. 
I have to admit that I have come to admire the general closure. Kind of like how I grew to love Sunday store closures in Spain--nothing like a day without consumerism. I think  the forced closure of work places forces some quality time amongst families and loved ones. Of course that isn't necessarily true for  single couples without children, or divorced parents who don't happen to have their children for the week they are forced to take off. However, instead of spending time with family family these people can take some time to focus on themselves. It is a time when people can completely disengage from their work place--no worries about phone calls, emergencies arising, or things that need to get done--as the whole shebang is just closed.
This year we are heading to the outback. We have rented a 4-wd in hopes of getting off the beaten path and away from the crowds. No work worries for Mark, we just have to keep our fingers crossed that the weather cooperates and that it doesn't get too hot.

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Dear Santa Anything But....


Early in December the wives began to talk.  The holiday season would soon be upon us, which meant the arrival of gifts from the various consultants that our husbands had worked with throughout the year.  Being my first Christmas season as a contractor’s wife, I asked the veterans what types of gifts to expect.  I thought they were pulling my leg as they informed me that the most common gift was a Jamon Serrano.  For those that do not know, a Jamón Serrano is an entire leg of ham that has been cured in salt and hung out to air dry. Even though it may be considered a delicacy in the gourmet world, I could not imagine two people eating an entire leg of ham, and there was no way that I would devote precious counter space in my kitchen to a black hoofed pig leg.
It is not that I am opposed to the eating of meat cured in this way.  In fact I have been known to pig out on a good plate of jamón, however I need to stress the word plate.  My opposition is to the presentation of a whole ham leg.  Perhaps this comes from years of shopping in massive grocery stores where consumers are presented with meat that is neatly wrapped in sanitary white packages.  Such presentation allows one to easily forget the origin of what one is buying.  Now, when faced with an entire pig leg, it is nearly impossible not to visualize the living animal that once ambled on that leg.
As the holiday season quickly approached I could not shake my ham leg fear.  Every-time the downstairs doorbell rang I reluctantly answered, and sighed in relief to find the meter reader, butane delivery man, or someone looking for our neighbor.
I thought that I was ham free when Christmas passed, but my husband reminded me that the holiday season in Spain was not officially over until the arrival of the Kings on January 6th.
Even though I was content to have the extended holiday season come and go without any sign of a delivery service, my husband did not share my enthusiasm.  He is a fan of Jamón Serrano, something I am not, and he was looking forward to having a whole leg to himself.  I tried to appease him by offering to buy small amounts of jamón from the butcher, but he wanted his own leg.
In mid-January I received an ecstatic phone call from Mark’s office.  He had just received a phone call from a frustrated deliveryman who had visited our home at least a half a dozen times during the past month.  I couldn’t help but wonder why no note had been left.  I was instructed not to leave the house because the deliveryman was on his way.  To my disappointment within an hour I was hauling a narrow cardboard box that could only contain a pig leg, up two flights of stairs.
As I sat on the couch looking at the box, I could not help but wonder what impact, if any, riding around in the back of a delivery truck for several weeks would have on the quality of cured meat.  I was also faced with the dilemma of how to deal with the leg.  The serving of Jamón Serrano is an art rather than just a process.
After much contemplation I decided to ask Mari-Carmen, the women I studied flamenco with, what I should do.  Of course I started the conversation off on the wrong foot by stating how I felt that it was silly to give two people an entire ham leg as a gift.  She responded with “Hmph.  A jamón for two is not excessive.  You should be eating a jamón a month.  You must eat jamón daily to be healthy!”  I did not dare share my own personal opinions on the benefits of jamón, but instead agreed that a jamon indeed was a wonderful gift but asked how I was to go about cutting it.  In her eyes this was not such a difficult situation, I just needed to go to the local dollar store and buy the special jamón holder and knife.  I decided that this was not the solution to my problem, so I asked her if it would be possible to take the leg to a butcher and have him cut it for me.  I was more than willing to pay a fee for this service.  This lead to my second lecture of the day, “Hmph, you can not do such thing.  That would only insult the butcher because you did not buy the jamón from him.”  Rather than argue that since I had no choice in where it was bought, being that it was a gift, I just dropped the subject--I was not prepared for lecture number three.
In early February the box containing our jamón remained in our living room.  I had refused to open it.  Not only did I find the idea of looking at a ham leg unpleasant, I knew the smell would be even more offensive.  Each evening I would remind Mark that it was his gift and stressed that he needed to do something with it.  At the end of the month, after spending a week in Germany, Mark decided that it was time for the jamón to leave our home, and he had figured out the perfect way for us to be rid of the leg while at the same time enjoy a savory treat.  Each week the Spanish Air-force had a luncheon.  Mark had decided that such an event was the perfect venue for the disposal of the jamón.
Friday morning Mark took the leg out of its box and headed off to our parking garage.  One of the major drawbacks of living in the center of town was the lack of parking.  We rented a parking spot in a garage that was a ten-minute walk from our apartment.  With the jamón slung over his shoulder, and a grin on his face, Mark made the trek to the car. His grin quickly turned to a frown when he put the key in the ignition and nothing happened.  After a week of sitting in the cold garage the battery was dead.  Mark called a co-worker to hitch a ride to work.  However, because contractors were not allowed to accept gifts from consultants, he had to leave the jamón in the trunk of the car rather than try to explain to his colleagues where it had come from.
Saturday morning Mark announced that the jamón would have to come “home”.  I refused to have anything to do with the jamón, so rather than accompanying Mark to pick up the leg from our cochera, I headed downstairs to the café in front of our apartment for a cup of coffee.  Half an hour latter Mark joined me, along with his prized gift.  When Enrique, the waiter, saw the leg he began to salivate and immediately asked if we knew how to properly cut a jamón, after all it was a skill that took many years of practice.  He was kind enough to tell us to let him know when we were ready to open our gift and he would be more than willing to come over and help us.  With a forced smile, I thanked him for his offer.
The jamón returned to our living room and remained there for several weeks.  However, as much as we ignored it, the leg was not forgotten.  One afternoon, as Mark walked home from work, an acquaintance approached him and told him how early one morning he had seen him walking with the jamón and how lucky he was to have such a fine piece of meat.  And of course there was Enrique who constantly asked if we were in need of his services.
We were preparing to leave to Italy for Mark’s cousin's wedding.  I suggested taking the leg of ham as a gift, but Mark didn’t feel that it would be appreciated.  He still felt that re-gifting it to the Spanish Air-force was the best solution since not only would he be able to participate in the consumption, but that the Spaniards would truly appreciate such a gift.  So for the second time Mark slung the jamón over his shoulder and began his journey to work.  This time the trip was successful, but unfortunately the Spanish Air-force had the day off and there was no luncheon.  The leg remained in the trunk of the car, where it was forgotten until after we returned from Italy.
It was now April, and our now famous leg had spent much of its cured life in the back of a delivery truck, in our living room, and in the trunk of our car.  Once again I offered a suggestion; I felt that perhaps we could barter the piece of meat for wild asparagus with the Gitano that hawked his goods at the roundabout on the way to Ronda.  Of course Mark did not find this acceptable.
By the middle of the month we were finally able to rid ourselves of what now felt like part of the family.  Unfortunately, it was not the happy ending that Mark had envisioned--the savoring of thin slices of the meat with a fine Rioja wine.  Instead, early one morning Mark had to dispose of the now moldy and soft leg in a dumpster.  Even though we were now jamon free, for several weeks I was worried that someone might have seen Mark in the act and that they would approach me to ask how in the world Mark could throw away such a fine treat.

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

The Fat One

Australia my have "The race that stops a nation," but in Spain it is a lottery that brings the country to a halt.  Well maybe the whole country doesn't come to a stand still, after all the drawing takes over 3 hours compared to the minute long race in Melbourne, but on December 22 much of the country is glued to the television or radio for much of the day waiting for the results.
"El Gordo"--The Fat One-- is the biggest lottery in the world, with millions of euros in prizes.   Participation in the lottery doesn't come cheap with tickets costing 200 euros.  However, to help keep down the cost tickets are broken into 10 parts (decimos), which are sold for a more affordable 20 euros.  However, if you buy only part of a ticket it means that any winning will be split with someone else.  Therefore, often groups of people--friends, families, co-workers--buy tickets together so that the fortunes will be shared with loved ones or at least acquaintances.
El Gordo tickets go on sale during the summer and can be bought at an official National Lottery Office, online, or in bars.  People tend to buy early since only a certain number of tickets are available and once they are gone, they are gone.  It is common for people to want tickets from localities where previous winning tickets were sold, so if you travel between May and December you are often asked by friends to pick up tickets from  cities the cities you visit.
The drawing of numbers in El Gordo works like no other lottery in the world.  To determine the winning numbers two large spheres filled with wooden balls are used.  One sphere contains several tens of thousands of balls inscribed with a unique 5 digit ticket number.  The second sphere contains 1,787 balls inscribed with a prize in euros on it.  During the drawing a single ball is removed from each sphere at the same time, and children sing the winning number and then the corresponding prize.  The process is repeated until the 1,787 prize-balls are connected to a number.  With the large number of tax-free prizes--paid out immediately-- the process is long and drawn out.
I hate to admit that I never bought a ticket for El Gordo, even though tradition says that everyone in Spain must play the lottery on the 22nd of December.  However, the sing song call of the numbers, heard echoing throughout a nation for hours on end became etched in my brain.  Even though the northern winds may not be strong enough to carry one of Spain's iconic sounds all the way to Australia, at 8:30 am (CTE) I will hear, or at least imagine, a distant song from my past.