Bush Camping Adventure

A trillion stars, a billion grains of sand, a million drops of rain, 3.5 thousand kilometers of road, hundreds of mosquitos, dozens of wild animals, two people, and one land cruiser--our bush camping trip from Perth to Adelaide was nothing short of amazing.

As we set out to explore the southeastern part of West Australia's coast and to cross the Nullarbor Plain, we hoped to have as much of an, off-the-main-road-outback-experience as possible. Rather than relying on conventional campsites and caravan parks, our goal was to find secluded spaces that would allow us to experience and appreciate the Australian wilderness. For the most part we were able to do this. Four nights were spent bush camping in fairly isolated National or Conservation Parks, and three nights were spent in more conventional National Park campgrounds. Other than wildlife, we had human company only on two of the seven nights.

Our first stop was just over 400 km south-east of Perth at the Frank Hann National Park. We arrived after dark but were lucky enough to find the faint and hidden trail that would lead us to Lillian Stokes Rock. It was here, on a granite outcrop that we set up our first bush camp. We were alone, in the middle of nowhere--no phones, computers, no TV's. The only sound to be heard was the occasional pitter-patter of rain on the roof, and our bird-chirping wake-up call. In the morning, as we walked amongst the bilabongs, we felt any tensions-related to our city life- slowly melt away.

Lillian Stokes Rock

We spent the next two days in National Parks near Esperance. Here we were treated to perhaps the whitest sand beaches and the bluest water in the Land Down Under. At Cape Arid we camped hidden among mallee trees, next to a meandering river. A moonlight mid-night walk included a frantic moment when I was charged by a very large red kangaroo. Fortunately, he veered off at the last moment. At Cape Le Grand we had to share the perfect view of a wide sandy beach with one other couple. Our afternoon hike was ruined by rain, but rewarded with a Southern Right Whale playing in the bay. Both evenings we were lulled to sleep by the rhythmic crashing of the surf of the great Southern Ocean.

Cape Arid

Cape Le Grande

It was at this point that our trip ran into a bit of trouble. The dirt track that we had hoped to take up the the Eyer Highway was closed and we had to take the sealed road which added over 200 km to our drive. The extra distance made us unsure of where we would stay that night. We had no desire to just pull over on the side of the road, like many people do (because of the long distances and lack of facilities). We also did not want to stay in a caravan park, they seemed so constrictive and depressing after our previous 3 nights. Just before Norseman, we passed a small brown sign that said Dundas Rocks. We decided to head up the dirt road and see what we could find. A small sign to the entry of the the picnic area had a caravan on it so we decided it meant we could camp in the area. Under a yellow flowering tree, once again, we found ourselves on our own. I was a bit worried that we would have troubles sleeping, since we were really unsure if we were really supposed to camping in this area and because we were fairly close to a town. However, sleep came as easy and as deep as the previous nights.

Dundas Rocks

As we studied our map the next morning we were unsure of how to plan our day. The detour had us behind schedule. The campsite we had planned to camp at the previous night was too close, yet we would have to drive over 9 hours to arrive at the park we had originally hoped to stay at that night. Our maps showed a small National Park just outside of Eucla, so we decided to give it a try. To our delight we arrived to find another perfect bush campsite located next to some impressive sandhills. Not only were we treated to a cloudless evening (perfect for stargazing), but we also had a magnificent sunrise. Because the sandhills provided a barrier between us and the sea, the only sound was the humming of our own brain.

Sandhills at Eucla National Park

On the sixth day of our travels, we were disappointed with the promise of a wonderful camp area at Fowlers bay. We could only hope that Cactus Beach would live up to it's reputation. We were greeted with the most conventional campsite of our journey, an amazing sunset, and hundreds of mosquitos. We were able to keep the mosquitos out of the vehicle, however my two trips to the dunny left me with over 15 bites on my rear end!!!! Needless to say our stay at Cactus Beach was prickly and cut a bit short.

Sunset at Cactus Beach

The second to last day, we were faced with torrential rain. Conditions forced us to once again change our travel plans. Instead of bush camping on the back roads to Iron Knob, we had to cross our fingers and hope that Lake Gairdner would provide us with a final campsite similar to those to which we had become accustomed. To our relief we found a campsite at the end of the rainbow. The salt water lake proved to be the perfect place to end our bush camping adventure.

Lake Gairdner

Surprise

This week's theme is surprise.

I was surprised to come across this normally timid nocturnal wombat in the middle of the afternoon! The picture was taken at Cradle Mountain National Park, Tasmania.

Ripples

This week's theme is ripples.

These ripples were created by the tidal currents of an ancient sea and are over 600 million old. The picture was taken at Telowie Gorge Conservation Park, in Southern Australia.

Artificial

This week's theme is artificial.

In Spanish the literal translation of fireworks is artificial fire—fuegos artificiales. For this week’s photo hunt theme artificial, I choose a picture of the New Years Eve 2009 Firework Show at the Sydney Harbour Bridge. After all it was a dream of seeing these Fuegos Artificiales that brought us to Australia—little did we know that it would be for more than a vacaton.

Gawler Ranges

While doing research for our trip to Coober Pedy and the SA Outback, I kept coming across the Gawler Ranges, but didn't pay much attention to them because they were a bit out of the way. Then when planning our trip to Eyer Peninsula, once again the name came up with some pictures and we decided we just had to go for a visit.

So after our night at Streaky Bay (see post Exploring the Western Coast of Eyre Peninsula) we headed for the hills. With the wind carved cliff and sandy dunes behind us, we entered the rural farming community of Minnipa--the gateway for the Gawler Ranges. Our first stop was Pildappa Rock: a cross between the Uluru's great monolith and Hyden's spectacular Wave Rock. A climb to the top of the large reddish pink monolith provided us with an excellent view.

View From Top Pildappa Rock

Surfing the Wave

The track from Pildappa to the Gawler Ranges National park provided some spectacular scenery. Due to an abudance of winter rain the contrast of colors in the bush was incredible. Each layer seemed to have it's own color of green!

The Bush

As tempting as it was to focus on the striking scenery, we did have to keep our eyes on the road. We didn't want to run over any of the reptiles that were warming themselves in the sun. Though most of them would begin their scurry to safety with plenty of time. We did see one skink who was a bit slow on his feet and we pulled over for a photo op. I knew he wasn't a happy little guy when he stuck his tongue out at me!

Blue Tongue Skink

After about a 50 km drive we finally reached the entry to the Park, and from here we still had another 30 minutes-on a strictly 4WD access-to arrive at the Organ Pipes. The final destination was well worth the journey. It was here that we were able to view the natural wonder of columnar joints. The Gawler Ranges information booklet explains that these multi-sided pillar like formations were formed millions of years ago when cooling volcanic ash condensed. Organ Pipes, which is located in a very rocky gorge, is an example of hundreds, if not thousands, of these pillars. It was easy to see how the site got its name. After a quick lunch we once again hit the road. Due to the large number of kilometers that we would have to cover we kept additional stops to a minimum. But we continued to be amazed by the scenery.

Gawler National Park would be one of those places that we would revisit if there were more hiking trails. Unfortunately, the only trail in the Park was the 1/2 km we did to the Organ Pipes. However, it is a true gem and a natural wonder that was well worth the visit.

Organ Pipes

Barbies, and I Don't Mean Those Plastic Dolls

Several years ago while walking down the narrow cobble stone streets of Utrera, I came across woman standing outside of a home with her face pressed against the bars of the patio gate. Though I could not see the woman’s face I knew she was an older person by her stature, and manner of dress. She was a tiny little thing (didn't even come up to my shoulders), and was dressed from head to toe in black. I assumed that she was a local viuda--widow-- but could not figure out what business she could have at this particular house since I knew that it was the home of Major Peter from the local American Air Force Base. As I approached, I slowed down to see what she was observing. There, in the middle of the Spanish tiled patio, had to be the largest bar-b-cue grill I had ever seen. Sensing that I had stopped, the older woman turned and grabbed my arm. In almost a whisper she asked, "What is that, is it some kind of car?” Rather than replying, “Why it's a grill you crazy old bat,” I took on the role of cross-cultural ambassador (one I often had to play in a small town in rural Spain) and explained what the grill was. When I finished, she looked at me like I was crazy and slowly walked off, muttering to herself.

I cannot imagine that same scene ever occurring here in Australia. I have seen more barbies here in OZ than anywhere else that I have traveled. I am not talking about privately owned grills, but ones for public use as well. When I say public, I don’t mean a little bar-b-cue pit at the park, where you are expected to bring your own charcoal, matches and lighter fuel. Here in Australia the public grills are self-lighting gas or electric. They are well maintained and often they are for use free of charge. You can find them everywhere. We have seen them, often in use, at National Parks, Rest Areas, and in the smallest towns.
The public barbie is one of those things that I really like about Australia. I find that they make public spaces more inviting, cleaner and user friendly. They help cut down on fire-hazard in the forests because they are either electric, and, if they are gas the flame is enclosed. Finally they are great if you are on the road and want something warm to eat. Recently, when making a motel reservation we were told there was a kitchenette. When we got there we only had a small fridge, but no worries, we just headed to the local park to cook up our tucker.

Our 4th of July at a Public Barbie

Verjuice

A recent visit to the National Wine Center of Australia was a bit of a disappointment. The ultra-modern building is located in the Botanical Gardens (a supposedly development free city park). Like the building the Wine Discovery Journey--a state-of-the art interactive experience--was a bit on the minimalist side. You would think that since Southern Australia is such a large producer of wine, they could have put together an informative display. I guess the Center is meant to be more of a venue for wine tastings, wine appreciation classes, and functions.

On a more positive note, the real focus of this blog, there is one section of video monitors that has various video clips of celebrity Australian Gourmands discussing the relationship between food and wine. It was here that I was introduced to verjuice, by Maggie Beer--a Barossa Valley Chef. Well, actually I had seen bottles of verjuice on grocery store shelves next to the vinegars, and had just assumed that it was a type of vinegar. However, I now know (thanks to Maggie Beer) that verjuice is not a vinegar, but rather an unfermented grape juice made from an unripe grape. In her video she explains that verjuice can be used as an the acidic base (substituting lemon, and/or vinegar) in cooking. The benefit of such substitution is that verjuice provides acidic tartness, without bitterness. She also points out that since verjuice and wine share the same acid base, it is a wine friendly condiment that compliments rather than competes with the taste a fine wine.

Of course I had to run out and buy a bottle of verjuice. Though not cheap, at about $10, I just had to give it a try. I have used it in dressings, sauces, and marinades. I find that it adds a little zest without masking the other flavors. Though it will not replace my many types of vinegar nor my fresh lemon, there will always be a place for verjuice in my kitchen.