What's Up DOC?

Our visit to Authur's Pass included an introduction to New Zealand's Department of Conservation (DOC) Campsites.  We had yet to find the brochure that listed all of the South Island's Conservation Campsites, so we called in at the National Park's Visitor Center to find out what our local options were.  We learned that we had three choices for the night.
The first, Avalanche Creek Shelter,was conveniently located just across the road and it included toilets and water.  Unfortunately, across the road also meant on the road.  Granted, there wasn't a lot of space with the river, road and rail track running through the narrow pass, but we were disappointed with what appeared to be a large parking lot.  We had envisioned camping in a more natural setting, so we headed down stream to check out our second option.  The setting at Greyneys was a bit better.  It was located in a forested area, but once again it was directly on State Highway 73.  Needless to say, we continued the couple more kilometers to Klodyke Corner.  Here we found a large open campsite that seems to be typical in New Zealand.  The campground, which is located near the junction of the Bealey and Waimakairiri Rivers, consists of a large flat field--which on our visit had been recently mowed.  We were a bit confused and unsure if the mowed area was for caravan or for tents.  At that point we were the only visitors so we had to take a guess.  We ended up playing it safe and followed a light vehicle trail to a remote corner next to the forest.  Our decision provided us with a secluded camping spot that had magnificent views of the surrounding mountains.

As afternoon turned to evening more campers pulled into the camping area.  Like us, many of them seemed unsure of what to do.  A couple of the large vans just pulled over on the side of the road.  A small group of cyclists pulled in, and they headed towards the tree line.
On our subsequent visits to DOC campsites, which unfortunately are not located at all national parks, we learned the etiquette of camping in New Zealand.  Typically, campers are to line the perimeter of the large open area.  We were never in a packed campground, so we never learned if once the outer edge is full if the inner area would be used for camping as well.
Over all our experiences at New Zealand DOC campsites were enjoyable.  We only wished that in a country with so many National Forest there could have been more public campsites.  The several sites that we stayed at offered clean basic facilities for a small fee--we didn't visit any of the full serviced sites.  Most of the locations easily accessible and in a more natural setting.  For those planning a camping trip across New Zealand the Conservation Campsite Brochure is an invaluable tool.

Koru

This week's PhotoHunter theme is spiral.

In New Zealand the spiral shape of the koru is used by the Maori as a symbol of creation.  The shape which is based on an unfurling fern frond symbolizes new life, growth, strength and peace.  The outer circle conveys the idea of perpetual movement, and its inward coil suggests a return to the point of origin.

The featured carving is in Pounamu--the traditional name used by the local Maori to identify locally sourced jade from Aotearoa New Zealand.

Heading For The Hills

Christchurch was not far behind when the mountain divide that separates Canterbury and West Coast came into view.  The scene before us was the same that we had seen from the airplane.  However, from the ground it became apparent that the magnificent landscape that dominated the area was not necessarily lifeless, and that the multi-coloredness came from contrasting vegetation and rocks.
The road follows the broad alluvial plain with its braided rivers--a series of small channels separated by small islands--a formation that is found only in a few places in the world.
As we drew closer to the Southern Alps we were in awe of the vast terrain that had been created by a rapid uplift and then eroded over time.  Over millions of years the grey sandstone was carved by glaciers that left large scree slopes, steep gorges, and truncated ridges.
Vegetation at the lower elevations of the valley is limited to shrubs and grasses.  In the riverbeds small patches of herbs, mosses and lichens can be seen.  Forest of mountain beech, the only native tree to grow in the area, dot the hill sides.

Our first stop on the Great Alpine Highway was Kura Tawhiti/Castle Hill Conservation Area.  The area's draw is a series of large, up to 30 meter high, limestone formations.  The boulders can easily be observed from the Highway, but to really appreciate them it is well worth taking the 15 minute walk.  The trail to the boulders is a well developed track, but once at the rock clusters visitors can meander through a network of worn but unmarked tracks.  The day was perfect, but unfortunately time was against us.  We wanted to make sure we found a camp site at Arthur's Pass before sunset, so we had to continue on our way.

A View From The Top

We awoke to a clear sky.  It looked like it was a perfect day to tackle Avalanche Peak.  However, we decided to stop in at the Park Ranger's Office to check on the wind speeds at the summit.  We didn't want to find ourselves on the exposed rim in the 100 km winds that were reported on the previous day.  We were informed that things were looking good, and that if we planned to bag the peak--today was the day to do it.  We took the Ranger's advice and skipped the Avalanche Peak Track, which included a steep rock scramble across avalanche debris, and began tramping up Scotts track.  Our choice may have granted us a well formed path to follow, but we were still faced with an extreme ascent.  The trail was limited in zig-zags and instead we were faced with a steep climb that would take us 1,100 meters from our starting point.

In many areas the trail had been eroded and in places the water had washed away much of the dirt.  This left large tree roots exposed, as well as many small cliffs.  Both obstructions on the trail had to be scaled.  The roots provided foot holds and handles to help in the climb, but the muddy cliffs were a slippery mess.  Despite the rough and rugged terrain we were able to clear the tree line in just under 2 hours.  At this point  we were gifted with a magnificent view of Mt. Kaimatau and its Crow Glacier.
The contrast of the dark grey apex of the mountain against the clear blue sky was breathtaking.  The two saddles that lead to the peak in front of us were still snow covered, and it looked as though the mountain was wearing a white wrap.  At first glance it seemed as though the glittery white snow was reflecting the blue of the sky, but instead it was the translucent blue of the icy crystals of the glacier.

Here the track turned to a poled route up the rocky ridges.  We were less than an hour from the summit.  Just as we arrived at our goal, a Kea appeared on a large boulder in front of us.  I assumed the inquisitive bird would stay with us during our rest on the summit, but to my surprise it let out a "keeeaaa" and flew away.

Our picnic lunch was cut short as the clouds began to roll in from the west.  We wanted to make sure we weren't caught in a storm while on the exposed part of the mountain.
As we gradually worked our way down the hills, I knew the views would stay with me for a life time, but I also had a feeling my legs would be reminding me of the experience for the next several days.

A Foreign Affair

This week's photohunt theme is foreign.

Every summer WOMADelaide is held in Adelaide.  WOMAD stands for "World of Music, Arts and Dance."  The event's aim is to bring together artists from all over the globe. For four days the Adelelaide Botanical Park is turned into a showcase of foreign music, art and dance. 

Unexpected

My eyes were shut and I was asleep before the plane had even left the runway.  I woke to a view of a sea of white fluffy clouds.  I knew we couldn't be far from our destination since the plane had slowed.  I anxiously peered out the window looking for that first glimpse of New Zealand, but clouds dominated the view.  As I stared off into the horizon the fluffy shapes took on a more angular aspect.  On closer inspection I realized that I was no longer observing masses of water particles, and that the forms in the distance were snow covered peaks.  I could barely contain my excitement and I jabbed Mark in the ribs and pointed out the spectacular view that was coming closer.
I knew that we wouldn't be climbing to the tip of the jagged summits before us, but the thought of being near such an imposing landscape was exciting.  As we drew closer the clouds dissipated and we had an unobstructed view of the apexes and valleys below us.  The view reminded me of flying over the Alps in Europe.
As we traveled southwest the snow covered giants were replaced by a more barren landscape.  I was surprised by the lack of greenery.  I had imagined New Zealand to be lush and vegetated.  I did not expect the lifeless landforms that lay below us.  However, I was not disappointed;  instead I was in awe.  The treeless mountain range below us was rich with color: yellows, greens, whites, pale reds, and grays.  It was as though we were flying over massive multi-colored sand dunes. I couldn't wait to hit the trail and explore this unexpected landscape.

A Swell Day

We drove the twisty curvy road in silence.  Mark suggested that I turn on the book on tape we had been listening to, but I felt we needed to focus on the road in front of us.  The zigzag dirt track that was taking us out of the mountainous area of Abel Tasman National Park needed all of our attention.  After all, we didn't know if around the next hairpin curve we would find a speeding logging truck, an enormous motor home, or a mudslide.  I left the radio on seek and occasionally we we would get a note or two of music.  As we neared the summit we tuned in long enough to learn that an undersea tremor near Japan had put the country on standby for a Tsunami.  We were also informed that New Zealand was not in any danger, and that the waves would not be reaching the remote island that we were currently visiting.

At this point in our trip a Tsunami warning wouldn't have affected us much; we would spend most of the day driving across several mountain ranges, leaving the ocean far behind us.  However, the following morning--as we approached the eastern coastal seaboard--we were greeted by a sign with a Tsunami warning on the side of the road.  We assumed that it was related to the previous day's tremor and didn't give it much thought as we continued on our way.

The meandering coastal road between Blenheim and Kaikoura is sandwiched between majestic mountains and the ocean.  The contrast of the dense rainforest growth on our right with the black sand and blue water on our left was stunning.  Several small communities dotted the road.  We had hoped to call in for a cuppa joe, but to our surprise none of the cafes or crawfish shacks were open, so we were out of luck.  An occasional car would pass us, but for the most part the area we were driving through had a sleepy feel to it.  It was almost as though things were closed down for the season, but that was hard to believe considering how many tourists we had encountered over the last week.  

When we passed a yellow sign announcing seal crossing, Mark quickly pulled over.  To my delight there were several seals on the rocky ledge next to the road.  They were lazily sunning themselves. There was some movement in the water.  What we first though to be seals coming in for a landing turned out to be frolicking dolphins, who repeatedly jumped up out of the water.  At the sight of each ariel flight I squealed in delight.

In the distance we could see the cliffside town of Kaikoura.  As we stood in the sun admiring the view, we decided that instead of heading for the hills we would make Kaikoura our destination for the day.  We had read about a seaside hike in the area and figured we could get the details at the tourist office.

The tourist office was easy enough to find.  Amazingly enough there were plenty of parking spaces, and there were just a few tourists walking around.  Once again this struck us as odd, especially since for the last week whenever we found ourselves in a populated area parking was difficult to come by.  With the Campervan parked in the front row, we eagerly entered the building and approached the counter--we were anxious to hit the trail.  You can only imagine the look on our faces when we were informed that the coastal trail was closed because of the Tsunami warning.  Our confusion prompted the woman behind the counter to advise us that due to the large earthquake that had occurred at 3 a.m. in Chile the costal area was under a watch. Large waves had already hit New Zealand's Chatham Islands, and the area where we were standing was the possible next target.  Hmmm, no wonder everything was closed and just a few brave souls were out and about--there was a possible massive force moving our way!  Needless to say, we decided to not to stick around to see if the waves arrived.  Instead, we stuck to our original plan and headed for the hills.

We later learned that the area did experience waves up to 1.5 meters and several surges, but fortunately it was during a very low tide so no damage occurred.